ECU Diagnostic Software and Hardware Setup

& How to Make Changes To The MM ECU

ECU Diagnostic Software using OBD2 Type FIAT with JP Diag or IAWDiag
 

** For JPDiag, a license is NOT required if your bike uses the IAW59M ECU (usually applies to 2001-2004 Ducatis)

Required
1. VAG-COM KKL 409.1 OBD2 USB Cable
2. Fiat Adaptor = Fiat 3pin Alfa Lancia to 16 Pin Diagnostic Adaptor Cable OBD2
3. Cable Driver
4. Software - JP Diag

!!!! IMPORTANT !!!! --> INSTALL THE DRIVER BEFORE CONNECTING YOUR CABLES !!!

Or, for a very reliable and better option purchase the LonElec kit, ships from the UK, decent price and very highly rated!  (no compensation for endorsement, just my opinion shared by quite a few others)

For the USB cable, recommendations are to obtain FTDI driver based ones.  However, Winchiphead driver based ones will work after modification (described below.)  The two different type cables can be distinguished by plugging in to a USB port.  FTDI will not illuminate its LED, Winchiphead will illuminate its LED.   Also, the two fly lead Fiat Adaptor is best.  I do not recommend the single red lead version.  

When you get your adaptor, continuity test the fly lead. There have been instances of the wrong colors being put on the crocodile clips. The red fly lead must terminate at pin 16 on the OBDII female plug. The black fly lead must terminate at either pin 4, pin 5 or both.  If wrong it can damage the ECU.
 

Cable Driver can be found here:

FTDI (http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/CDM/CDM20830_Setup.exe)

!!!! IMPORTANT !!!! --> INSTALL THE DRIVER BEFORE CONNECTING YOUR CABLES !!!

Once the drivers are installed and then the USB cable plugged into your PC, identify the Com Port number for it in ‘Device Manager’ under Ports. A com port number of 1 to 9 is recommended. Use advanced settings to change the com port number if not.

The ECU Software Download is here: JPDiag

Confirm the Com Port number for the lead using Device Manager. Enter the Com Port number in the box on the Software. 

Ducati motorcycles made between 2001 and 2004 are likely to have an IAW59M ECU. The correct setting for the IAW59M ECU is ‘Slow Init’. This ECU does not require a license for the diagnostic software to fully function.
 

For bikes with the IAW5AM ECU use ‘Fast Init’ and a license is required to fully function. Use the blue copy button in the software and then the request page on the website.

** If anyone does find that they have the Winchiphead lead then you need to do a modification by making a solder bridge between pins 4 and 5. The picture below shows how to.

As you launch JPDiag you will be presented with a screen displaying 3 picture options of your cable setup. Choose which one corresponds with yours when the time comes.

To be safe check your power lead pin out back to your ODB II cable before you connect to anything at all by doing a resistance check with a multi-meter:


You'll see in the picture below the operating pins on the OBDII  cable.

OBDII pin n. 5: Negative;
OBDII pin n. 7: K line (where the data travels to and from the controller);
OBDII pin n. 16: 12V +

**Cablaggio diagnosi moto (Motorcycle diagnosis wiring) is the K Line

The pin you need to check is #16, it is positive power so set your multi-meter to ohms and connect one probe to pin 16 and the other to the red alligator clip.  I simply inserted a largish sewing needle into the corresponding female pin hole and connected the multi-meter probe to it to check continuity. Check your negative while you're there too if you like, it's pin #5. Pin #7 is the K line which you needn't concern yourself with.


That's your polarity check sorted. DO THIS BEFORE YOU CONNECT UP TO ANYTHING !!!

At this point you should have installed the correct driver and JPDiag.

Before launching JPDiag connect the cables -

1. Connect the OBD and Fiat cables together and plug them into the USB port of your computer.
2. Look in Device Manager, under Ports to see which COM port the cables are using.  You will need to know the port number in case it needs to be corrected in JP Diag application. Make sure to check this before connecting to the ECU. In Device Manager of your computer, if you select the device listed under ports and right click, go to properties and in the drivers tab you can check to make sure it's operating with the right driver which should be FTDI if FTDI Based Chipset.
3. Connect red alligator to positive battery terminal and the black to a good ground on your bike (negative).
4. At this stage a little blue LED will light on in the OBDII cable.
5. Launch JP Diag and select your cables.
6. Once the program interface opens you'll see a connect button alongside a field into which you'll need to enter what COM port you're using.
7. Check the ini field setting - IAW59M use 'slow ini' IAW5AM use 'fast ini'
8. At this stage you can do another test on your cables. Set your multi meter to 20v and do as below:

    Click Cable Test -
Connect the +ve and -ve fly leads to a 12v power supply e.g. your bike battery but do not connect the diagnostic plug. Set your multimeter to 20v and connect the +ve lead on the meter to the single outer pin in the Fiat Adaptor. It should look like this [- | - -]. Connect the -ve lead from the meter to the middle pin or the -ve terminal on the power supply.
Click on the connect button and the KLine 12v and KLine 0v tabs should become selectable
Your meter will read in excess of 12v straight away. If you have the correct com port you will be able to click on the KLine 0v and the voltage on your meter will drop to 0.3v. Click on the KLine 12v and the meter will read over 12v.
If you don't get this behavior then the KLine is not working so check your setting (probably Com Port)

9. Now if everything to this point is in order go ahead and connect your Fiat lead up to your ECU diagnostic lead (ST4s under the seat).
10. Click the connect button which is near the port # field and you will see on the screen "connecting", I waited a little while then turned the ignition key on and like magic on the left hand side in JPDiag you'll see the basic ECU data. Copy it and post it in the request license form and you'll get a message back from jpl which will include license file. This cle.lic file then needs to be copied into the JPDiag directory .
 

**For IAW59M use 'slow init' and IAW5AM 'fast init'

Extra detailed information that you will not need but is informative to understand ECU pin out and connectivity with the ECU.

Likely Issues:

1. Did you install JPDiag correctly. Did you click on the computer icon on the second screen of the installation and then follow the prompts?

2. Have you set up the correct Com Port for the cable? Check in Device manager, the lead will show up under com ports. If the com port number is over 10 then change using advanced setting to a lower number.

3. With Win7 you need to navigate to the folder Program Files/JPDiag and locate the file jpdiag28c.exe (the one with the icon of an Italian flag). Right click on this file, select properties, select compatibility and then check XP Compat Mode and Admin Rights. Then click apply.

4. Put the correct com port number in the box on the start screen of JPDiag. For IAW5AM ECU's select Fast Init. For IAW59M ECU's select Slow Init. (IAW59M used up to 2004)

5. With the leads connected to the bike. The +ve fly lead to + on battery, the -ve fly lead to good earth on frame or engine. Click connect. You should see green bar below that box and change to 'Disconnect'. Now turn ignition of bike on.

IAW DIAG Setting Trimmer Value

IAW5xM ECU has two types of memory:

Flash-Memory, where the bin-file (aka fuel map) is stored and EEPROM - electrically erasable programmable read-only memory, where data like Serial number of ECU, TPS-Valence-Trim-Value and is stored

When you flash your ECU, it does not change the EEPROM (you may see the eeprom-tool from the guzzidiag-page) therefore, it is not necessary to complete a TPS Reset if you reflash an existing ECU in your bike (No change to the TPS-Valence-Trim-Value stored in EEPROM)

It is not harmful, but it is not necessary. Only changing the Hardware (ECU or TPS) makes it necessary to do a TPS Reset, or a worn TPS.

For the CO-Trimmer Setting:
The 5AM ECU operates stock in Closed Loop Mode, and the CO is controlled by Lambda sensors. The Value of the CO-Trimmer is set to zero from factory,
you can’t even change this value as long Lambda sensors are active.

If you reflash the ECU with a map "Lambda off" -- as described above the Trimmer-Value remains at Zero.

The bike will run, even with no change to the CO-Trimmer.   It will run much better in the Low/mid-rpm range, if CO is set to around 4.0 - 4.5% as measured with a gas-tester.  If no gas-tester, set the CO Trimmer to a value of around 24.

According to those with experience, CO level of 4.0 -  4.5% equates to a trimmer value between 22 and 28.

How To "MAKE CHANGES TO THE  Magneti Marelli (MM) ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT (ECU)"

as posted on Ducati.ms from Yorik:


WARNING – There is risk involved with accessing the ECU. Reversing the power leads to the diagnostic cable can make the ECU unusable. In other words, you will brick it and you will have to replace it or find a work-around, if possible. I'm sure there are other ways, too. By attempting to access your ECU, you accept all risks associated with doing so. No one is making you do this and you do so willingly.

"This only covers ECUs made by Magneti Marelli since I will be limiting discussion to the IAWDiag and TunerPro programs. I will not be getting into technicalities. I’m a layman and that’s who this is written for.

If you have a different ECU, I suggest checking out M3C by JPDiag (for the M3C ECU from Siemens) or Melcodiag (for Mitsubishi ECUs) also from the maker of JPDiag to see if one of those will work for you.


But first, a few basics.

IAWDiag: A free/donation ware program (and associated programs) that allows access to Magneti Marelli ECUs. IAWDiag is the generic version of GuzziDiag.

TunerPro: A program that allows a user to read and make changes to a bin file. There is a paid version and a free version. The free version does what we need it to do.

Bin file: A binary file that is found on the ECU. This is where the fuel map(s), immobilizer flag, and other items that control the motorcycle can be found.

Xdf file: A file used by TunerPro that translates the bin into something that can be understood by the user.


I’ll be covering two of the most popular items people ask about. One, loading a new fuel map to the ECU and two, turning off the immobilizer. Other popular things IAWDiag can do is reset the service indicator, adjust the CO trim, and reset the TPS. (Just a note about resetting the TPS – you never want to electronically reset the TPS if you have the non-linear type. That is done manually.)

Before diving right in, you will need the following:


• IAWDiag (the main program is universal, but the associated programs that allow you to read and write are ECU specific). GuzziDiag / IAWDiag"

• TunerPro (free version). TunerPro and TunerPro RT - Professional Automobile Tuning Software

 

• Cables to connect the motorcycle diagnostic port to your computer. The most trustworthy source is Lonelec. GUZZIDIAG JPDIAG DUCATIDIAG KIT - INTERFACE + ADAPTOR (KL & 3 Pin Set) - Lonelec


Ok. Time to get started. The first thing you should do is just get familiar with IAWDiag. There is a good tutorial online that covers GuzziDiag. And since IAWDiag is the generic version of that software, they are very similar. The main difference between the two is that GuzziDiag allows the user to select the model of bike they have whereas IAWDiag makes you choose the ECU and TPS that the bike has.

The tutorial can be found here: The New Improved GuzziDiag Tutorial (local pdf version here)

To determine the ECU your bike has, you can look it up in the service manual or ask on the forum. To determine the TPS, the type will be embossed directly on it if you have physical access or, again, you can ask.

Now that you have looked over the tutorial and have determined the ECU and TPS combo you have, it’s time to connect to the ECU.

The safest way to do this is to first connect the two cables together. Then connect the power leads to the battery. MAKE SURE THEY ARE NOT REVERSED. A quality set of cables will have a power indicator light that will not come on if the leads are reversed.

Now you can connect the other ends of the cables to the diagnostic port and computer. Open IAWDiag and select your ECU/TPS combo in the Preferences sub-menu. If you don’t see the combo you have, select your ECU and a TPS that is of the same type as yours, i.e. linear or non-linear. You also have to have the com port correct. Now you can select the Connect sub-menu item and follow the prompts.

Hopefully, all went well and you’re now connected.

The Reader and Writer features can also be accessed through the IAWDiag program menus or opened directly from their file location.

The first thing you should do if you are loading a new map or making an immo setting change is to download a copy of the current file on the ECU. It’s good practice to keep an unedited copy of the file in case you ever need to reload it if the changes you made didn’t work or you don’t like the results of what you did.

Before using the Read feature (which makes a copy of the bin file), it’s advisable to remove the fuse for the headlight. The reading process isn’t very quick and it’s best to minimize the drain on the battery. Now go ahead and Read the ECU. Just follow the prompts.

If you are loading a new map, go ahead and use the Writer feature. This will erase the ECU and upload the new bin file you have. This usually goes much quicker than the read process. After uploading a new bin, you must perform a TPS reset. Remember, do not use the TPS reset feature in IAWDiag if you have a non-linear TPS. Resetting the TPS is outside the scope of this posting, but Brad the Bike Boy has excellent information about it at his website: BikeBoy.org as does Desmo Times’ maintenance guides by LT Snyder.

If you are disabling the immobilizer, you will be using TunerPro. Open the program and then open the bin file you downloaded from your bike. You will also have to select a proper xdf file to translate the bin so you can make changes. Because xdf files are made by the DIY community, not everything you may need exists. We are at the mercy of the people out there that have the knowledge and ability to decipher bin files properly.

Most xdf files are named well enough to get an understanding of what bins they are designed for, but sometimes they also work on others. Finding an xdf that works can sometimes be hit-and-miss. And to add occasional grief, not all xdf files have the immo flag so that you can toggle the setting. The simplest way I have found to check if an xdf looks good is to load it up with the bin in TunerPro and open the main fuel map. If it doesn’t look right, and it’s fairly obvious when it isn’t, then it’s time to try another. The RPM and TPS scales will be off and the map will look wrong. Do not attempt to use an xdf that looks wrong.

If you find a working bin/xdf combo with the immo flag, all you have to do is uncheck the checkbox and save the bin. That’s all there is to it. Be sure to save it as a different file than the original. Upload the modified file using Writer and that’s it.